Friday 4 April 2014

AN OPEN DISCUSSION – STATIC VERSUS BAGGED : WHERE’S YOUR ALLEGIANCE?

It's an argument that finds its way into discussions in every car show parking lot and enthusiast garage. Spanner wrenches and elbow grease are pitted against control switches and compressors. The debate gets heated as claims that your car isn't low enough until your subframe hits asphalt are met with remarks that "airride is cheating". Some guys will never give up the springs that rest on the perches of their coilovers, while others have swapped them out with their rubber counterparts to abolish that last quarter inch of gap in their wheel well. In this low lifestyle, enthusiasts often pledge their allegiance to a side. Which side are you on and what you draws you there?  We sit here in the StanceWorks office and we've decided to kick off the discussion ourselves...

Mike Burroughs: I've built cars with air suspension and I've built cars with "static" suspension, and I think they've both got their place - points like cost, style, capability, performance, and practicality are all valid. However, I think one stands above the rest: ask any hardcore static guy and he's going to tell you one thing - bags are the easy way out, and I think it's a hard one to argue. There's something inherently more impressive when two cars sit side-by-side, both with mind-blowing wheel and tire fitment, and you discover that one is on air and the other is static. Simply put, when it comes to a static car, what you see is what you get.  While both cars may look phenomenal, the air-ride owner simply pressed a button to achieve his look while the coilover owner is committed to his look. There's no "drive height" and "show height," they are one in the same.
Andrew Ritter: While both are impressive, airride allows you to squeeze out that last bit of height that would otherwise leave your car un-drivable. It allows fenders to be tucked in between lip and stretched tire. Bumpers can come in contact with the ground. With the press of a switch owners can tuck those large wheels up against the wells while laying their subframe on the ground. The "drive height" and "show height" you mention allow the car to have an insane fitment and then be driven rather than simply parked at a show. With static cars you wear away subframe bolts on a daily basis and that tight fitment leads to burnt fenders.  Every speedbump and steep parking lot entrance slows static cars to a crawl as they scrape their way over, leaving bits and pieces of their undercarriage behind.

MB: While some guys take pride in the damage their cars receive, I think most people can respect a smashed oil pan as a certain "badge of honor," whether its in jest or seriousness. While it's silly, there's an obvious level of commitment that comes with "living the low life." Smashed oil pans, worn frame rails, burnt paint, et cetera. To some, they're earned. Not to mention that if needed, coilovers can, with relative ease, be cranked up to realistic heights suited for harsh roads. Or better yet, the track. In many ways, it's the best of both worlds. A large portion of the car scene prefers a balance between aesthetics and performance, and I think most would agree that coilovers offer the better balance. Dedicated track cars use coilovers for a reason, and you have that capability with the turn of a spanner wrench. Sounds like the better end of the deal, no?
AR: While nearly all track cars enlist coilovers for their competition needs, airride has improved a great deal over the years and it offers the performance that most enthusiasts need. Competition race cars need the finite adjustments of a coilover to dial in turn-in, corner balance the car, and address and handling needs. For 99% of car enthusiasts who are simply looking to enjoy their car on twisty roads and back mountain streets, this is overkill. With a quality airride setup, you can still have a car with fun sporty handling.

MB:  To be fair, even if airride offers good enough handling, it sure seems like an expensive way to more or less "compromise." Air ride systems can get into the thousands of dollars when it comes to struts, lines, management, and the like. While coilovers can exceed $10,000 for a set, it's not hard to find a solution for less than a tenth of that, which in turn will get you down the road, having fun, and looking good.
AR: Airride can be expensive, but it's a modification that will let you truly enjoy your car. We all know someone who is unable carry multiple people in their car without rubbing, or have seen someone who rubs down their tire sidewalls with every turn taken at speed. Those are true sacrifices, as you trade off many of your car's functions for a low static height. Soon you are left with a car that can only be used with gentle care. The comfort, adjustability, and the care-free nature that an air suspension allows you to have that insanely low car while still having a car that you can use day to day without any stress.

The arguments for each side are endless, and we're sure there's much more to be said. From performance to practicality, each point is valid. With the introduction of threaded air struts for newfound adjustability, will air continue to grow in popularity with the previously "static only" crowd? Or will the proven method of coilovers make a comeback? We're eager to hear your opinions - which side are you on? What suspension is under your car, and what's your reasoning?

Stance – Its All About Offset Rims, Stretched Tyres, And Negative Camber

Stance is all about rims with a lot of offset, stretched tyres, and negative camber. To achieve that “perfect” stance-look, you must have suspension modifications that will allow your car to sit closer to the tarmac. Also, the right rim size and offset. This can be tricky as a wheel can make or break that look.
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An amazing nissan 350z riding low, its stancetastic!
The wheel must have a lot of offset finishing and steelies are the new trend nowadays. The lip can either be high polished, colour coded or covered with stickers. Tyres are just as important as the rim and must be able to stretch.
Choose the correct size to fit the rim and try to get the lowest sidewall possible to allow the vehicle to be lower with less wheel gap. A negative camber will make the sidewall of the tyre sits as flush as possible with the fender. Camber and stretch allows the vehicle to run wider wheels than normal and tuck directly under the fenders for a super flush fitment.
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A very nice euro style subaru with great stance style
This style is more common on JDM and Euro-styled look vehicles.
That includes:
JDM: 
OEM exhausts (Civics will upgrade to CTR: civic type R exhaust)
16inch JDM rims (Brands such as Volk, Rays, Spoon and etc.)
OEM headlight and taillights
Full Coilover systems
Euro-style:
Body being standard with add ons like a spoiler
Badges removed and delocked
OEM headlight and taillights
The original lines of the car should be maintained
Full coilover or air suspension
15 inch or smaller rim size, most common now are steelies.
Well, this is just some ideas and tips to create that “go low and slow”- look.
Thats it for our small how to guide and if you would like more information on this “Stance – its all about offset rims, stretched tyres, and negative camber guide” please contact us or comment using the form below.
If you have any suggestions, tips or how to advice please also comment or contact us, we would really appriciate any tips or advice you would like to offer our readers. Thanks